Joyful harinama in the medieval city of Loches
I joined Devarshi’s padayatra on July 15th, when he arrived in the medieval city of Loches, about 33 kms from New Mayapur. With five other devotees, visitors and temple residents, we all drove in Doyal Nitai’s car for the big harinama in this city of about 6500 people. The sun was blazing that day, but the good thing was that it was market day. Many locals and tourists were there to hear the holy names, get a book or a brochure. After two hours of chanting among the various stands in the narrow streets of this royal city (the kings of France used to reside in its castle) we all returned to the train station, where the car was parked. Time to drink some cool water and enjoy the delicious cake that Caitanya Nitai Dasa had brought from his home in Tours. We all felt grateful to his wife, Goloka Prema dasi, for this kind and thoughtful gesture toward the padayatris and the harinama party. A group of children who had participated in our kirtana in the city happened to walk by, so we offered them a piece of cake and invited them to chant the maha-mantra, which they did without hesitation. When the mother showed up a few minutes later, devotees gave her some prasada and brochures and made friendly contacts with her.
Walking for a change
After all the devotees had returned to their respective homes, only Devarshi and I were left for the next leg of padayatra. First we went under the shade of large trees on the bank of a nearby river to honor the picnic I had prepared. We still had 17 kms to walk to the next destination, the small village of Loché-sur-Indrois. At 5 pm (in reality 3 pm, according to solar time) we decided to venture on the hot road. Devarshi had some training, but I was not prepared for such a long walk with such a high temperature : around 38°C (=100 °F )! I could barely remember the last time I had walked more than 15 kms, which happened on the Vraja Mandala Parikrama, around 15 years ago. Anyway, I had decided to walk that day, no matter what. I knew it would be good for my mind and body to go on a little padayatra. Also, as the Padayatra Ministry’s coordinator, I had to show devotees that I could also walk sometimes, not just talk or write about others walking.
It’s all in the mind !
Our first intermediate goal : the crossroads at the entrance of the old royal Forest of Loches. We knew that there we would get some shade on the next section going through this large forest ( 3590 hectares =8861 acres) mainly composed of oak trees. This pleasant perspective made walking most of these seven kilometers under the blazing sun, up and down many small hills, much more tolerable. Finally, after looking over the golden grassy hills to spot some tall green trees, we arrived at the crossroads in the form of a five-pointed star with a stone pyramid erected in the middle. This « pyramid », looking more like a column in fact, was not the remnant of some very ancient past. Nothing too glorious about this monument : it had been erected a few centuries ago to serve as a meeting point for hunters.
I was so exhausted that I almost collapsed on the grass. When I saw the road sign indicating that Loché-sur-Indrois was 10 kms away, I seriously wondered how my legs would be able to make it. I had become so painfully aware of all its different muscles. Time to tolerate ! Happily we would have some good shade for a while, but the road was blocked for cars only three kilometers ahead, which meant I would not be able to catch a ride with a car in case I could not make it. I remembered having read somewhere that our body is much more resistant than we think : the main problem is with the mind, as all devotees know. Time to have a serious talk with my mind : « OK, my dear mind, just shut up for a while and stop complaining ! Chant the holy names if the mouth is too dry to do it ! Enjoy the refreshing shade of these majestic trees and just stop thinking you will not make it ! Think positive, or even better, do not think at all ! You have no choice but to keep walking, so better get used to this idea ! » When I arrived at the 9km milestone, I could not believe we had covered only one kilometer. It seems like it was three. Time is really subjective indeed, as we read in the sastras ! When we’re enjoying ourselves, time but when we’re suffering, a few moments feel like ages…
Finding ways to pacify my mind
In order not to succomb to my wicked mind I had to find ways to pacify it with some pleasant intermediate goal : « OK, my dear mind, be patient ! I will stop at each of the next eight milestones, take a little rest and drink a little water. Is that all right with you ? » The chanting, some occasional friendly chats with Devarshi, meditation on the next milestone made it easier, even when we got out of the cool forest to encounter Mr Sun again. First I was looking ahead to spot the next milestone in the distance, and then, magically, the distance seemed to be much shorter between each one. Devarshi had told me to walk in a different way, to take larger and higher steps in order to use different leg muscles. It worked ! At least it gave my mind something new to think about ! When we arrived at the 6km milestone I felt I could not drag myself any longer. But we had already passed the point where the road was blocked to all vehicles. « OK, mind and legs, this is your day of tapasya ! Tapasya is good for you, it stretches your limits. » I tried to feel a little grateful for being forced to go a little beyond the identification with my body and mind.
Then my mind started to look at the situation from another angle and get more philosophical. I saw this padayatra similar to the path of devotional service. In both cases, there is an ultimate goal we want to achieve, but it’s healthy and encouraging to give ourselves some intermediate goals which are within our reach, with some efforts of course. On the road back to Krishna we encounter tough times (the scorching heat of material desires and miseries) and cooling times (the shade of the lotus feet of the Lord and His dear devotees). And when our mind cannot take the austerities any more, we experience and appreciate the soothing and encouraging words and presence of companions on the same road. When we arrived at the 5km milestone, I celebrated the half-way victory with a longer pause above the bridge of a small stream. When we arrived at the 3km milestone, my mind decided to forget about the last kilometers and got busy in some light conversation with Devarshi. When we finally made it to Loché-sur-Indrois, I could not believe I had made it all the way. I never appreciated jumping in my car so much. I had parked it in the village the morning so I could drive Devarshi to New Mayapur and go home to the next village of Ecueillé. We made a short stop at Laksminatha Dasa, a devotee living in the village, and got treated to a wonderful glass of very cool sparking mineral water.
A few more devotees walked on the last section to New Mayapur . The next day I drove Devarshi, Giri Govardhana and his son Uddhava to Loché-sur-Indrois for the next leg to Ecueillé, where they went on harinama to greet the Nrsimhadeva deity at the house of Nrsiimhananda Dasa. Later in the afternoon a temple devotee dropped Devarshi, Bhubanesvar and Chandra Gatri in front of the mairie of Ecueillé to walk the last 6 kms to New Mayapur. Too few busy devotees in the temple to have time for a welcome party, but I’m sure Srila Prabhupada and Lokanath Maharaja were very pleased with Devarshi’s padayatra.
